Clerke’s of Skibbereen, authentic Ireland

Clerke’s of Skibbereen. We were staying in Castletownshend, because I wanted to see the family home of two of my favourite authors – Somerville and Ross. They wrote ‘The Irish RM’ amongst other gems and I read it at least once a year, for the wit. Unfortunately the big house was closed the entire time we were there – but that’s another story.

If you’ve ever been in the vicinity of Castletownshend you’ll know that the silence is deafening. Nothing is happening in Castle’T save for the odd regatta and cream tea at the castle, which isn’t really a castle so much as a guest house. I mean, it’s a pretty spot there on the waters edge. It’s a picturesque location, Ideal for a middle aged woman with a camera and a penchant for green walks and mossy rocks, but not somewhere you would purposely drive 200 miles to spend a fortnight as a middle aged man. As the middle aged man kept telling the middle aged woman.

Fortunately the bustling little town of Skibbereen lies a bearable amount of expensive petrol away and thus became our daily pilgrimage in search of life. Life was found occasionally – there is a weekly market and a decent handful of independent shops. There is a wonderfully long bookshop, a number of pretty nic nac shops and there is, most blessedly, a bustling and wellbeloved SuperValu.

SuperValu is a landmark Irish grocery chain and the one in Skib, had an instore bakery and cafe that became our daily base. We tried everything. We had plenty of time.

Clerke’s – Old time traditional grocer

Further down the street In Skib is what would have been the forerunner of the SuperValu – Clerke’s shop. Clerke’s of Skibbereen is/was a traditional grocer. I believe it has at last closed, but it was for a long time a remnant of a simpler time. The front room of a house, converted into a shop, selling essentials and confectionery. If you are interested in West Cork history and nostalgia the lovely Roaringwater Journal has a post about these such shops here – there is a rather lovely photo of the last Miss Clerke in her store.

When I was there, the shop front was still crisp and well kept, the door was slightly ajar and the cool dark interior was a welcome retreat from the summer sun. It was a treasure found. I will keep it in my memory this way, I hope it is preserved.

My portrait of it is painted in watercolour paper on Arches paper and i have prints available if anyone wishes, they can be found here in my Etsy store. They will eventually migrate into my new store.